At 6075 m.a.sl, Volcan Chachani is the highest of the volcanoes near the city of Arequipa in southern Peru. Although the ascent to the summit is considered non-technical (there is no permanent ice cap or glaciers), for us, climbing Chachani represented the biggest challenge of our travels.
Even though we were fully acclimatised, having spent 5-6 weeks in and around the Andes, we experienced many of the effects of altitude sickness including headaches, nausea, dizziness, servere malaise, insomnia (we climbed after no sleep), loss of appetite (I could not even manage a whole bowl of soup prior to climbing) and diarrhoea - I won't mention who had what :-)
We climbed from Chachani's northern side, which we reached by four-wheel drive. The 4wd track evenually ran out at 5000m from where we walked the first lungbusting 200m of switch back inclining trail to base camp at 5,200 metres carrying water, tents, sleeping bags etc......approx 15kg gear...this was not fun and took 2 hours. Confused, we pitched our tents and tried to sleep from 5.30pm onwards.
We started the summit attempt at 2am - the first three hours were in darkness.
We crossed the face of adjacent mountains El Angel and Fatima before ascending to the summit of Chachani itself.
Our route required an ice axe and Suvi was roped up some of the time (on decent). We traversed steep/loose terrain which constituted the main challenges....the slopes went on forever. Exhaused and breathing heavivily, it was mind over matter to reach the summit. For Suvi the challenge meant facing her fear of heights which at times got difficult for her to deal with. Especially when I slipped - I dug in my ice axe to prevent me slipping indeffinately.
She over came her fear....amazing!
The final push to the summit was a steep scree slope which was agonising for us. ...But finally we made the summit at 09.30am - a 7hours 30 minutes climb from base camp - the most exhausing thing we've done....well....ever I think.
My legs went to jelly during the decsent as I had no strength left. Suvi faired better on the decent than me motivated by wanting, desperately, to get the hell off this mountain....fair play to her :-)
Passing El Misti volcano by 4wd en-route to the drop off point.
Taking a breather from the bumpy ride below the Chacani summit....the reality of our challenge was gradually hitting us....GULP.
Loading up our backbacks at the drop off point...
....15kgs of gear...deep breath....lets go!
Malaise setting in....how do we pitch a tent again??
Our guide cooking up some coca tea.
At base camp. Eddie and Suvi taking a well earned breather once the tents were pitched.
Opportunistic shot by Suvi....passing mountain fox. Nice to see!
Sun set at 5200m.....
....amazing!
We went everywhere wit our poles....was difficult to balance without them.
Lying in the tents after we arrived at base camp made me feel sick. Walking around at sunset made us feel better although you could not go far with our taking a breather.
Suvi and I at sun down contemplating sleep.
Bed time at about 6pm. Returning to our tents.
First break, sometime before dawn. Climbing with no torch light was not cool...thx to Eddie and suvi for helping.
Arequipa at dawn.
Proof that it was bloody cold up there.... -6 at its coldest.
One of the endless scree slopes.....switchback after switchback.
Our lofty perch for well earned rest....Eddie and I actually passed out breifly on this ledge....so tired!
A dodgy section of the climb through an ice field.
Somewhere just below the summit.
Views of the surrounding volcanic peaks.
Looking down on El Misti....we knew we were nearly there at this point.
Typical stance - slumped over our poles trying to draw enough breath for the next 6 steps.
6075 meters above sea level - The summit - can't believe it!
The three of us triumphant!
Us with our guide on the summit.
Great vista up here - Arequipa and airport far below.
On top of the world!!!!
All I could do was collapse....and contemplate how we were get off this damn mountain.
Views of multicoloured volcanic peaks from Chachani summit.
Suvi roped during another dodgy section of the decent.
:-) My feet the next day :-) Can't expect to be mountain climbers with out some pain :-)
Thursday, December 3, 2009
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